Galeries Lafayette is investing almost 8.5 million in a brightly-coloured
space within its store incorporating features such as extra-large changing rooms, allowing
two girls to change and compare together, Le Monde says, a range of 'street wear' clothing
and background music selected and mixed by an on-site DJ. In addition, it is offering
courses in knitting - something, it is said, which has turned into a true phenomenon in
the United States. The reason for this
fevered activity is the growing purchasing power of this section of the population.
Accounting for 13% of consumers, it accounts for 26% of all purchases of clothing. Take a
broader view and look at the 11-25 age group, Le Monde says, and you are talking about
33 billion in spending power - up 35% over the past 5 years.
According to the research agency, l'Institut de
l'enfant, a young shopper's annual budget averages 830, without factoring in the
contribution of parents. And Galeries Lafayette are not the only ones to have realised the
potential gain. Zara, for example, is looking to set aside spaces in its stores for this
age group while La Redoute, the mail order company, has increased the number of pages in
its catalogue given over to products for 15-25 year-olds by 65%.
"Younger buyers are of particular
importance", Bernard de Talhouët, head of La Redoute, tells the paper. "They
bring with them a modern image and are able to exert a strong influence on other buyers'
behaviour".
"Companies love to embrace today what they
rejected beforehand", counters Joël-Yves Le Bigot, head of Génération 2020, which
specialises in studies of younger consumers. "Until the beginning of the 1990s,
adolescents were considered to be an unstable target market in which you couldn't really
invest. Since then, they've realised that they're missing out on several million potential
clients".
As a result, companies have been equipping themselves
with the means to understand their new audience. "You can't just mimic their
attitudes", Paul Delaoutre, MD of Galeries Lafayette, tells Le Monde. "That's
why we handed over responsibility to young designers and marketing specialists. Certain
brands, he adds, launch limited editions in order to create a phenomenon of not being able
to get hold of the product. Others practise 'street marketing', dressing 'opinion-leading'
youngsters for free in order to create a trend.
The problem, however, is maintaining the
relationship. "If a company just settles for the proposition that if young consumers
get out their wallets, then they can get what they're looking for, then they're bound to
fail", says Joël-Yves Le Bigot. "You have to establish a form of dialogue,
propose corporate values which sit within the universe of the adolescent - turn their
passions into possibilities.
Knowing how to do this, he cautions, isn't
straightfoward. "Take Nokia mobile phones. Two years ago, they were cult objects, but
they've since been supplanted by Samsung", says Joël Brée, professor of marketing
at the Univeristy of Caen. "In the same way, Adidas was a 'has been' ten years ago.
But since the victory of France in the 1998 World Cup, the brand - which sponsored the
team - has become a brand that makes young people dream".
This can be a difficult target market to understand -
if a product, for example, becomes too widely accepted, it can lose its appeal. And, in
addition, there are no single, strong trends any more. "Thirty years ago", says
Joël Brée, there was just one dominant trend, such as disco or punk. These days, you
find 'micro-tribes' of adolescents with completely different interests." That makes
it, Le Monde concludes, a rather attractive target market, but one that's also rather
difficult to hang on to.
To visit the section of the Galeries Lafayette
website dedicated to its new section - Lafayette V.O - just click here. |